Ali Hewson: Trade Not Aid!

Last week the talented and lovely designer Ali Hewson, founder of EDUN, made a visit to San Francisco to meet fans and customers at the EDUN pop-up store at the Clary Sage Organics store on Fillmore Street.

The store, which always has a magical array of eco-friendly designer clothing and organic lotions and potions, was filled to capacity with shoppers and well-wishers.

EDUN is a line of sustainably produced designer clothes, and includes fluttery tops and dresses, sexy organic jeans and T-shirts. You can get the latest looks from EDUN online, and you can also find the cool EDUN LIVE line of shirts here at Tonic.

While EDUN is a fantastic-looking line, it has an even more beautiful heart.

This for-profit business has the goal of building sustainable communities by establishing solid trade relationships, or "trade not aid." EDUN focuses on doing business with developing areas of the world, particularly Africa. This brings jobs, money and economic stability to small villages that would otherwise be dependent on outside aid.

I had a chance to ask Ali some questions about her business philosophy, the challenges of having lofty goals, and how we can all help. And I even slipped in a question about her husband, U2 singer Bono!

Tonic: What drew you to trade rather than aid as a focus?

Ali Hewson: The continent of Africa accounted for 6 percent of world trade in 1980 but dropped to less than 2 percent by 2002. Africans could earn an additional $70 billion in exports each year if its trade share increased by just one percentage point.

We want to dispel the image of Africa as a begging bowl. It’s a sexy, vibrant place with a willing and determined workforce. With fair world trade policies, Africa can be sustainable and millions could be lifted out of poverty.

Tonic: Why fashion and clothing rather than something like jewelry or furniture or tribal artwork?

Hewson: Clothing is an industry that once thrived in Africa. The basics already exist on the continent from fields of cotton to the sewing machines.

Few people understand the power of fashion. Ethical trading can change lives and lift people out of poverty. Clothing factories are one the first steps in significant trading for many countries. Long-term, committed use of these factories can change the fortunes of so many people for the better.

Tonic: What inspired you to start EDUN LIVE?

Hewson: EDUN LIVE is simple product that can be made today in Africa. It is 100 percent African from the seed to cut and sew. And it’s organic! It also allows us to build volume, which is key in building trade.

It starts with a blank T-shirt, which is a universal items, worn around the world by all ages and demographics. Any company or individual can use these tees and print their own graphics on it.

This is a business we are very keen on growing as the direct benefits to Africa could be significant. And most importantly, it keeps the supply chain in Africa, which is key to building industry and getting Africa on a level playing field.

Tonic: How does EDUN work with Bono's RED line?

Hewson: Both RED and EDUN are tackling the same issues from different angles. EDUN is not an official RED company. It was Bono’s intention to create RED to encourage large multi-national companies to help rid that part of the world of AIDS, malaria and tuberculosis. RED as such is aid, and EDUN is trade. We’re committed to working sustainably in the developing world.

Tonic: What is the biggest challenge and/or most satisfying part of this type of business?

Hewson: There are many challenges along the road to creating fashionable clothing that is made ethically and (in some cases) in areas of the world that are still developing and may lack basic infrastructure such as proper transport. It can be hard to get quality garments to the market on time!

We are on a journey and each day brings new discoveries and new effectiveness. It’s the small victories that count. The most satisfying thing is knowing that EDUN is part of a ground swell of change. We are a small company but we have a big voice!

Tonic: What advice do you have for individuals who want to get involved and help?

Hewson: Anything you do on any level helps. No action is too small! Whether it’s buying sustainable products, recycling, joining groups like one.org or unplugging your phone and lap top chargers. Everything counts!

I feel totally inspired by Ali’s example, and of course the clothes are fantastic, too! Check out the EDUN website to see the latest designs, and if you’re in San Francisco drop by the EDUN pop up store at Clary Sage Organics to see them in person.

Photo: Ali Hewson by Naomi Fiss, taken at the EDUN event in San Francisco, March 2009.