Tonic Trek: Heidelberg

I'm no history buff, but I've heard Germany might have been involved in a spat or two in the last century. While its '40s World War II essentially left Berlin in ruins, the academia-centered Heidelberg in the south largely avoided the bombs and bullets barrage and retained its glorious character and charm. It is, in fact, a window into Germany's romantic-era visual heritage.

Though it has its suburbs, the heart of Heidelberg is definitely the downtown area focused on a long strip called Hauptsrabe. On one side sits the mighty castle looking down on the city below, while the other side features the Neckar River with its regular flow of riverboat cruise lines. At least once a year, the river flows onto the nearby streets, sometimes reaching considerable heights (water-level markings on the "Old Bridge" nearly reach the top). Centuries-old homes dot the land along the river and up in the hills near the castle, and each one stands out as an architectural beauty of a time when pre-fab homes were unthinkable.

Besides being a living museum of German's architectural past, Heidelberg is also one of the biggest university towns in Europe. Its university dates back over 600 years, and it remains a major learning center today. Martin Luther even defended his Articles here. Teens come to Heidelberg from all over the country (and beyond), which gives the city a youthful, vibrant feel. Add the local U.S. Army presence, and you have a town that's as welcoming and travel-friendly to Americans as any in Europe.

No one who gazes upon this aesthetically stunning city cannot be grateful that it was spared destruction during the second world war, but that's not to say that Heidelberg always dodged the bullet. Visiting the museums, churches and other landmarks, I repeatedly read about this invasion or that invasion based on religion, largely in regard to Protestantism vs. Catholicism. It's hard to imagine that Jesus would want his followers to burn down villages over doctrinal differences, and it's heartbreaking to imagine all the beautiful buildings we will never get to see because they were destroyed in the name of religion.

With this type of history and strength of its education system, the people of Heidelberg are naturally more accepting of different points of view and religious beliefs. Of course, having an endless number of bars and restaurants doesn't hurt either.