Coclico: Reducing Your Carbon Footprint From The Foot Up
Green living has seemingly injected an unprecedented element of research, planning and sacrifice into our everyday lives. And frankly, at times it can feel downright challenging. As we each move along the eco-conscious continuum, we're confronted with choices about how we want to live and what we're willing to give up -- or not. I for one am not ready to give up meat. There, I said it. I like eating steak and wearing leather boots. However, I’m always willing to continue moving in the direction of holy all-green goodness, which is why I was intrigued by the concept of sustainable leather.
Third generation shoemaker, Sandra Canselier, founded Coclico, a New York City-based shoe company in 2000. Most recently, the French-native partnered with seasoned designer Lisa Nading, and together they’ve been exploring the boundaries of style and comfort within the context of a sustainable world.
Traditional production of a leather shoe can take a significant toll on the environment. From the treatment of cows to the chemicals used in tanning hides, there are multiple processes that could largely benefit from a splash of green. But Canselier and Nading acknowledge that the path toward change is a long one. "Coclico did not wave a magic wand and enter a green fairy tale. We're in the real world making the best decisions that we can to become a sustainable company. Our promise is we'll always be pushing for progress," says Nading.
In the fairy tale version, a sustainable shoe would be one manufactured with raw materials extracted without disturbing the balance of nature, as well as utilize renewable energy in its creation. And when it's beyond the point of wear, it would be composted for its components to return to their simplest form of organic matter. Sounds far into the future, but maybe we’re closer than we think.
Nading recently returned from a trip to Italy encouraged by the increase in tanneries addressing environmental issues. Many are developing leathers without the use heavy metals, especially chrome used for tanning. Chemical companies are also developing completely biodegradable synthetic soling materials. And while some efforts like a leather's hand feel aren’t quite ready for public consumption, she says, "It feels like real change is working in the industry and that is exciting to be a part of."
Coclico successfully incorporates many eco-friendly practices without compromising their top priority–style. They’re increasing the use of vegetable-tanned leather, practice due diligence in the harvesting of wood and cork and only utilize lead and nickel-free hardware. And for the inevitable footprints they do leave, they offset the impact by using local materials whenever possible and by purchasing credits from Native Energy.
Until organic sustainable leather is more readily available in the wider market, Nading suggests looking for metal-free vegetable-tanned leather certified by strict third-party testing labs. "The very best thing you can do when you're buying your leather goods is to invest in quality, durable, timeless pieces that you will love to wear season after season. That may mean spending a little more for the right item, but not having to throw it out until it's falling off of you. And do support companies that are trying to be better stewards."
Even one step further, Nading stresses the importance of addressing our overall impact. "Don't dwell on the aspects of your life where it may be difficult to make changes, but make the changes toward leading a sustainable life where you can. When each of us makes small efforts, it will snowball and become easier and easier to leave a smaller, collective footprint." That's what I'm talking about. So if you're going to wear leather, let it be sustainable.



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