Not Your Average Sunday Morning Service
The most famous church in Heidelberg is clearly the Church of the Holy Spirit. Located in Cathedral Square in the middle of the downtown marketplace and beneath the watchful eye of the Heidelberg Castle, this beautiful church reminds everyone it's still active with a mighty steeple that stretches into the sky for all to see.
First mentioned in print nearly 800 years ago, this gothic church is reportedly built on the same lot as two previous sacral sites, another church and a Romanesque basilica. Records show that construction was ongoing for about 150 years, and then new work had to be done after the French invasions of the 17th and 18th centuries. In fact, the church's baroque spire was rebuilt during one of these reconstruction phases. Naturally, as one might expect, the Church of the Holy Spirit rivals the most stunning structures in all of Heidelberg. Throughout the church's long history, two important elements stand out. First, in a time when Europe was split between Catholicism and newfound Protestantism, this church catered to both. Though completely Protestant for the past several decades, the church once featured a partition so that both faiths could practice simultaneously within its sacred walls. This move was bold — and noble and spiritual — considering that wars would break out over who embraced which religious side.
Unfortunately, the second element reflects that very divide. The Church of the Holy Spirit, also a one-time lecture hall for the local university, was famous for its Bibliotheca Palatina library. Sadly, during the Thirty Years War (started largely over religion), an invading party looted the church of its books and manuscripts and presented them to the Pope as tribute. Nearly 10,000 items were taken, and as a supposed act of amends two centuries later, less than 1,000 were returned.
Ironically, the church also has a more modern footnote worth mentioning. With the Vietnam War in full force in the early '70s, the church was actually a popular spot with Heidelberg's hippie movement and flower power kids. They even had a rock concert at the church in '72 that, while a hip move with the hippies, wasn't embraced quite so enthusiastically by the church's more conservative members (wait 'til they got a load of Stryper a decade later). Today, while similar churches are treated like museums, it's nice to see such a historic landmark still being used for its original intended purpose — worship and reverence.
Naturally, the Church of the Holy Spirit joins the castle as the two must-see buildings in any trip to the city of Heidelberg. And if you do go, see if they'll still let you climb the sky-high steeple for an incredible view of this gorgeous city.



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