Tonic Trek: Istanbul, Part 2

On Monday, Tonic discussed where to stay and play in Turkey's big city, highlighting popular areas such as Sultanahmet and Taksim and describing how Istanbul spans both Europe and Asia at the Bosphorus waterway. In previous eras, Constantinople (as it was called back then) has served as the capital city for the Roman, Byzantine, Empire and Ottoman Empires and remains one of the world's most populous cities as Istanbul. In our second look at the one-time imperial city, Tonic explores the local pleasures and pastimes while warning about tourist scams that are sadly far too common.

After a day of sightseeing, you can unwind like a local by visiting a hamam, a.k.a. one of the city's famous Turkish baths. There are options for scrubbings and massages, but for guys not wanting another dude touching his junk, it's worth the trip just for a relaxing time in the sauna. From there, head over to a hookah bar to puff on a traditional Turkish water pipe. They even found a creative way to utilize an apple on the pipe, which seems to sweeten the tobacco smoke. Another local custom worth enjoying is a game of backgammon. Sure, you've played the game in the States, but "tavla" (as they call it) was apparently created in Turkey and the locals take the game as seriously as a fantasy football league. Tavla is so popular in Istanbul that many of the bars actually carry boards for patrons to play.

And what about grubbing down? You'll want to try grills in the fancy restaurants, but the street food is often the tastiest. Cheaper restaurants serve yummy kebabs (a.k.a. gyros) and manti (Turkish ravioli), while street vendors offer roasted chestnuts, corn on the cob and fresh-squeezed juices. Local drinks include the yogurt-based Ayran and Turkish tea made from mountain leaves, and for those who like desserts, the cakes are indulgent while the ice cream offers a sticky texture and consistency. You can also find menus that feature old casserole recipes from the Ottoman Empire that are tasty.

Though you don't have to worry about starring in a "Midnight Express" sequel, I must unfortunately warn you about popular scams pulled on tourists. At restaurants, waiters often pad the check so add up the meal cost from the menu when you order and remember it for later. Never order anything without asking the price first. Try to have exact change, and if you don't, always count your change before you leave. Watch for price scams, like restaurants that switch out menus and hotels that charge you in Euros instead of Turkish Lira. As for cabs, make sure the driver doesn't fiddle with the meter and that he's using the day rate during the day. Also, make sure it's a metered ride and ask a local to estimate the cost before you get in. Whether it's a taxi or bartender, make the person acknowledge a larger bill before handing it over, and check your change to ensure you weren't given counterfeit bills, especially from Taksim bartenders. Speaking of nightlife, pay for each round of drinks as they come and never run a tab. Don't trust seemingly friendly locals who want to take you for a drink, even if they say they're buying. In some cases, tourists are actually treated to dinner before going to a bar where they're soon hit with a huge tab. You should also check the Internet for the latest scams before heading over, and remember that many of these pitfalls can be avoided by always having exact change.

Despite having to keep an eye out for tricksters, a visit to Istanbul is a truly rewarding experience. It's a mash-up of Asian and European cultures, and it's the perfect moderate Muslim country for exploring Islamic mosques. For many centuries, this city was essentially the capital of the world, and it remains a vibrant metropolis even today.