The heart of Istanbul is set up for tourism, so often times you have to visit other cities for a more authentic Turkish big city experience. Izmir is the country’s third largest city, and while it’s still a major seaport, the southwestern city sure felt like the real deal.
Founded by the Trojans about 5,000 years ago, Izmir is better known to many by its ancient name, Smyrna, and as the birthplace of Homer. Today, Izmir features a modern feel with the high energy and lack of polish that epitomizes many major cities built for locals. Outside of its old mosques and ancient marketplace, the city truly feels like what it is, Mediterranean Europe.
Traditional attractions include the clock tower at Konak Square, the 102-year-old Asanor elevator originally driven by water, Kadifekale castle, the 18th century Kemeralti bazaar, the Roman remains of Agora and the fantastic beaches. From firsthand experience, I found the Izmir waterfront to be absolutely enthralling with gorgeous sunset views and tons of moderately priced bars and restaurants.
For tourists, Izmir seems to be more of a transit city than an actual destination, so it hasn’t been as anglicized as Istanbul. There was a soccer game my first night in the city, and bars literally put TVs and chairs in the streets for everyone to watch the game together. Prices were more than reasonable, and the food didn’t seem toned down to fit American and European palates. Quite frankly, it was the authentic Turkish experience I didn’t entirely get in Istanbul.
Izmir is certainly not a vacation hot spot, but it’s definitely worth visiting for a few days (especially if you’re in the area already for Ephesus) to experience big city life in Turkey. It’s a great way to cut through all the tourist clutter.