Just as St. Petersburg is the most European city in Russia, Lviv provides the Euro-flourishes for the Bear’s little sis, the Ukraine. In fact, having been part of five or so different countries in the past 120 years, Lviv spent more time in European hands in the last century than it did in Ukrainian.
Lviv ultimately bares many similarities to its closest westerly neighbor, Krakow, which is actually the most common train route across the Ukraine’s western boarder. While it might not have as grand a square, Lviv’s medieval Rynok Square is still impressive with gorgeous historic homes, underground bunker bars and restaurants that offer a whipping good time. It’s also nice because most everything you’ll want to see or do is within walking distance of the area.
Needless to say, you will want to find accommodations close to Rynok Square. High rollers can stay at the Grand Hotel, though it’s actually decently priced for an elite hotel. I did a quick check, and during tourist season, rooms ran about $120/night, which is excellent for a Grand Hotel. I personally split my time between Kosmonaut, the hipster hostel where most partiers go, and a brand new place I loved called the Old Ukrainian Home hostel. OUH, run by the two Igors, featured old school, heavy wood furnishings and lots of personal attention. In fact, one of the Igors took me and another hosteller to a water park to go on the big slides. Yes, I really am that dorky.
As far as nightlife, you really only have two options (unless of course you’ll just settle for one of the many awesome bars). The first dance club, Metro, features numerous rooms helmed by extremely mediocre DJs, but the place is generally packed and you occasionally hear some decent spins. While I certainly felt comfortable at Metro, the main age bracket is 18 to 26, so it definitely skews younger. For the 25 and up bracket, however, head just a little further down the same road and you’ll find Picasso. The DJs are better, the crowd is more upscale and mature, the club itself is far more elegant and the prices reflect all of the above. Keep in mind, Lviv is crazy cheap, so saying Picasso is more expensive is definitely relative.
Kiev might be quintessential Ukraine, but Lviv may just be the country’s most beautiful city and the perfect introductory spot for a would-be easterly traveler. If nothing else, I would definitely add it to your agenda if you plan to visit Krakow.
